宝格丽腕表设计高级总监Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani 先生1971年生于意大利西南部的港口城市那不勒斯,曾在全球排名第六的罗马工艺美术高等学院学习工业设计。
在罗马求学期间,Fabrizio先生积极探索意大利设计的文化根源,并学习突破独立个体的研究眼光以构建自己的整体性思维。研究对象涵盖日常生活中的汽车、腕表、椅子等物品。他尤其欣赏细节部件的独立之美,以便能更好的从整体角度体会它们的极致魅力。
1998年,Fabrizio先生受菲亚特设计总监之邀,在菲亚特都灵设计中心开启了他的职业设计生涯。在那里,Fabrizio先生用6个月的时间完成了毕业论文并于当年12月21日也就是他生日那天开始了在菲亚特设计中心的全职工作。
在被誉为“世界汽车设计之都”的都灵,Fabrizio先生开始接触工业设计的工作并逐渐学会驾驭拥有设计和制造双向挑战的高难度项目。
Fabrizio先生勇于迎接人生中新的挑战。出于对腕表设计的热情和执着追求,他于2001年向宝格丽罗马设计中心发送了自己的设计作品。不久,一直致力于宝格丽创新设计的宝格丽集团主席保罗·宝格丽(Paolo Bulgari)即邀请Fabrizio先生加入宝格丽的腕表设计团队。
在Fabrizio先生眼中,汽车和腕表设计有着诸多相似之处。“汽车外观设计不仅要能体现其用途和性能,并在一定程度上承载着车主的梦想;腕表设计亦是如此,并且意味着更多挑战,因为腕表设计师需要在40mm的空间内将以上内容全都恰如其分的展现出来。”
Fabrizio先生与宝格丽集团主席保罗·宝格丽(Paolo Bulgari)和副主席尼古拉·宝格丽(Nicola Bulgari)互相尊重、彼此之间友谊深厚,而且对汽车有着相同的爱好。基于他们之间深厚的友谊以及密切合作,Fabrizio先生于2007被任命为宝格丽腕表设计总监。从此,Fabrizio 先生开始在一个崭新的平台上践行他腕表设计的使命,不间断的尝试用全新的设计语言诠释宝格丽的设计精髓和品牌内涵。
2009年,在征得宝格丽集团同意之后,Fabrizio先生决定将宝格丽集团的设计中心搬往瑞士的纳沙泰尔。这一举措对宝格丽来说十分必要,因为它将使宝格丽更加靠近于世界制表业的中心,从而引领宝格丽在复杂制表业的尖端市场更进一步。
Fabrizio先生于2006年步入婚姻殿堂并育有两名子女。他与妻子二人也时常分享对设计的热爱。
Q:环球网时尚频道 李晓丹
A:BVLGARI宝格丽腕表设计高级总监Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
Q:You have worked and lived in several cities in Italy. So, what about Italian culture do you think has influenced your designing the most?
基于您在多个意大利城市生活和工作的经历,您认为意大利文化对您的设计是否有着深远的影响?
A:It’s difficult to answer this question, because all of the cities impact my design, it’s the Italian way of life, it’s the Italian taste for beauty, and the Italian design culture. I was born in Italy, in Naples, but I grew up in Rome, and I spent part of my life in Turin when I was a car designer, but industrial design culture was born in Milan. So, it’s difficult to say just one city, Rome is completely different from Naples or compared to Milan or Turin, but for example I love Sicily, I love Sardinia, I love Venice, so it’s very difficult to say one city. It’s the Italian taste for beautiful things, we grow up surrounded by beauty thanks to the Renaissance, thanks to all the dominations that we have had in our land, it’s impossible to say just one city, it’s the Italy, the biggest inspiration, and Rome.
这个问题比较复杂。实际上,这些城市中的意式生活方式、意式审美以及意大利设计文化均对我的设计产生了影响。意大利那不勒斯是我的出生地,而罗马是我长大的地方。当我还是一名汽车设计师时,我在都灵生活过一段时间,而米兰是工业设计文化的起源地。鉴于我的这些经历,很难讲哪个城市对我的设计作品影响最大。相较那不勒斯、米兰或都灵,罗马是一个截然不同的城市。此外,我还喜欢西西里岛、撒丁岛及威尼斯。与其说是某个城市影响了我的设计,不如说是意式审美。得益于文艺复兴和其他主流文化的盛行,意大利人在美丽的氛围中长大。意大利和罗马的历史传承是我最大的灵感源泉,而不是某个单一城市。
Q:When you studied, you did research on Italian culture and Italian history, so did this impact your design?
据我所知,您在求学期间研究过意大利文化和历史,这种经历是否对您的设计作品产生了影响?
A:When I studied, I studied in Rome, and I studied in an industrial design school, so it’s the industrial design culture that impacted my style, the Italian way to play with materials and to play with constrains, it’s difficult to say, for sure the history of arts, it’s very important in Italy because we are full of impressive monuments and art pieces, but it’s the approach to industrial design in Italy that is completely different compared to other design cultures.
当年,我在罗马的一所工业设计学院求学。因此我的设计风格确实深受工业设计文化的影响,即意大利人的材料运用理念以及对种种限制因素的应对方式。艺术史是意大利文化的重要组成部分,在意大利,名胜古迹与艺术作品比比皆是。与其他设计文化相比,意大利的工业设计理念自成一派。
Q:Bulgari has taken its tradition of watchmaking to new high-levels, especially in the ultra-thin design, so could you please introduce a little about these achievements?
宝格丽将传统的制表理念提升至全新高度,尤其是在超薄腕表设计领域,可否简单介绍一下宝格丽在该领域所取得的瞩目成就?
A:Bulgari in the last year created a new collection of watches that everybody knows, like the Octo Finissimo for example. We started with the Tourbillon five years ago, the thinnest manual winding Tourbillon in the world and afterwards we introduced the manual winding hour, minute and second, and after the minute repeater and the automatic one. So thanks to this collection, we gained a lot of prizes, last year two prizes on the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva, this year we have five watches selected for the final prize in Geneva that will be at the end of this week, and the Octo Finissimo automatic one gained two very important prizes in terms of industrial design, the iF Gold Design Award and the Red Dot Best of the Best. It means that it’s not just a watch but it starts to become a design icon, this is very important to us, because it’s a different watch compared to the other former watches, for the first time, Octo Finissimo is able to combine together, the ultimate know-how in terms of Swiss watchmaking and the latest execution in terms of design, with this kind of finishing, this kind of material, this new way to wear a grand complication watch let me say.
去年,宝格丽推出了众所周知的全新Octo Finissimo系列腕表。5年前,宝格丽开始涉足陀飞轮腕表领域,推出了Octo Finissimo系列陀飞轮腕表,这款腕表是当时世界上最纤薄的手动上链陀飞轮腕表。随后,我们还推出了手动上链机芯,最后推出了Octo Finissimo系列三问腕表以及Octo Finissimo系列自动上链腕表。凭借这一腕表系列,我们荣膺了诸多奖项,其中包括去年在日内瓦高级钟表大赏(Grand Prix d’Horlogerie)上斩获的两项大奖。今年的日内瓦高级钟表大赏将于本周末隆重开幕,五款宝格丽腕表入围了奖项提名。Octo Finissimo系列自动上链腕表还荣获了两项举足轻重的工业设计奖项,分别是iF设计金奖(iF Gold Design Award)与红点最佳设计奖。这些奖项充分证明该系列不仅仅是腕表,它已开始成为一种经典的设计符号。这对我们来说意义重大,不同于宝格丽早期推出的腕表款式,这款腕表首次将精湛的瑞士制表技艺与最新的设计风尚进行了巧妙融合,集卓越制表工艺、创新材料以及全新大复杂功能于一身。
Q:You have made a lot of breakthroughs in watchmaking, so what’s the message that you want to deliver to consumers?
宝格丽在制表领域取得了多项技术突破,希望借此向消费者传递怎样一种精神?
A:The message that I want to deliver is that, because of the Octo Finissimo collection, there exists today a new way to wear a grand complication watch, not only just a classic watch but a contemporary execution. Because if you see the other watches on the same segment you see the same execution, it’s a round shaped watch with a very thin bezel, so the Octo Finissimo changed completely the roles in this playground, and after the automatic one a lot of very prestigious brands started to play again in the same playground. So, the Octo Finissimo is the latest execution in terms of elegance in terms of high watchmaking content.
Octo Finissimo系列腕表开创了大复杂功能腕表的全新演绎方式,巧妙融合了经典腕表的元素与现代摩登风范。你会发现,市场上的同类型腕表风格相同,皆采用了圆形表盘和纤薄的表圈,Octo Finissimo系列腕表则完全颠覆了这一点。继宝格丽推出Octo Finissimo系列自动上链腕表之后,多家著名腕表品牌也开始涉足超薄腕表领域。可以说Octo Finissimo系列腕表代表了优雅风范与制表技艺的最新潮流。
Q:You have been with Bulgari doing watch designs for many years, so what do you think is the challenge in designing a watch?
您在宝格丽工作多年,有着丰富的腕表设计经验。在您看来,腕表设计的最大挑战是什么?
A:To design watches first of all you must have a passion for watches. I’m an industrial designer so I’m very lucky, I joined Bulgari eighteen years ago, more or less, and during my career I designed a lot of different things, watches, jewellery, accessories, furniture, transportation design. So, for me it’s very important to understand the now behind different categories and be able to understand the heritage and the DNA of the brand to make each time an innovation, even a small innovation, or just an evolution, of the iconic signs of the brand through the products, so I think this is the most important element. Bulgari is full of form and science and a very impressive heritage; my role is to continue to evolve this heritage, not to copy and paste form the archive but each time to find a new way, to find an opportunity for our clients to wear our Bulgari products.
要想设计腕表,首先你必须热爱腕表。作为一名工业设计师,我很幸运能够在18年前加入宝格丽。在我的职业生涯中,我设计了许多不同类别的产品,其中包括腕表、珠宝、配饰、家具以及交通工具。我觉得非常重要的一点就是了解不同类别产品之间的联系以及品牌的历史与基因,这样我们每次设计产品都能对品牌的经典设计元素进行创新或优化,哪怕只是小小的创新。我认为这是腕表设计中最重要的一点。宝格丽不仅具备丰富的腕表造型设计和先进的制表技术,还拥有深厚的历史传承。我的工作职责就是继续升华宝格丽的经典设计,而不是对经典表款进行简单复刻,同时致力于为客户设计全新的宝格丽腕表。
Q:Watches nowadays are not merely timekeepers, so what do you think are the other important elements that you will consider when you design a watch?
如今,腕表的用途已不仅局限于显示时间,您认为在腕表设计过程中,还有哪些其他重要元素?
A:For sure it’s a mix of elements. The client is very important, the technical features are very important, and the DNA of the brand is very important, so you have to mix the different ingredients and when you combine these ingredients in a different way you have a very interesting result. So, this is the case with the Octo Finissimo but also with our other watches that you can see today in our showroom, it’s a different mix between the Swiss watchmaking know-how and the Italian design culture and the brand DNA. So, for sure the technical features are very important, but we are Italian and first of all the object has to be beautiful.
毫无疑问,腕表设计融合了多种元素。客户、技术参数及品牌基因都是非常重要的元素,你必须将这些不同元素进行巧妙融合,而不同的融合方式将带来别样惊喜,Octo Finissimo系列腕表正是我们呈现的惊喜之一。本届展览上,我们展出的其他腕表均展现将瑞士制表技艺、意大利设计文化以及宝格丽品牌基因进行融合的不同方式。技术参数无疑是非常重要的元素,但作为意大利品牌,惊艳的视觉美感是宝格丽的首要追求。
Q:In your opinion what are the new trends for global watch design?
在您看来,全球腕表设计的新趋势是什么?
A:It’s difficult to answer because today we have a lot of trends at the same time on the market, in the past we have had just one or two, for example the big watches or the grand complication watches, with the jewellery elements for ladies. Today we have all the elements, all the trends at the same moment on the market, so we have the vintage watches, the military watches, the big watches, the small watches for ladies, the grand complication watches. But I think the biggest trend today is the vintage trend, it’s something that is interesting for Bulgari for example, because we don’t use this approach to copy and paste from the archive but each time we try to reinvent the archive. For us the heritage isn’t just an opportunity. But other brands make, in a very, very impressive way, this kind of approach in terms of vintage products.
这个问题很难回答,因为如今市场上同时存在多种趋势,而过去只有一种或两种趋势同时存在。例如,融合珠宝元素的大表盘或大复杂女士腕表。如今的腕表市场集聚了所有元素与所有潮流风尚,既有复古腕表、军事腕表、又有大表盘腕表、小表盘女士腕表以及大复杂腕表。我认为复古腕表是目前的主流趋势。有趣的是,宝格丽追求对经典表款的重新诠释,而不是简单的复刻。对宝格丽而言,经典表款不仅仅是商机,更代表了品牌传承。相反,在复古腕表领域,其他品牌大肆利用复刻方式来推出全新表款。
Q:What’s the main focus when you design a men’s watch and when you design a ladies’ watch? Are there any differences?
在男士腕表和女士腕表设计方面,您主要关注哪些因素?有什么区别?
A:Men’s watches and ladies’ watches are completely different because when you design men’s watches the main clients put more attention on the mechanical and technical features, so we speak a different language. The ladies’ client for example it’s a more emotional approach, the male client has a more functionalistic approach so it’s a completely different world and way to imagine the products. The ladies have started to be very interested in technical features, but when you see a ladies’ watch you have to imagine that aesthetic and functionality have a different blend.
男士腕表和女士腕表是截然不同的两个产品类别。男性客户更关注机械和技术参数,因此男士腕表设计与女士腕表设计完全不同。具体来讲,女士腕表设计更注重感性元素,而男士腕表设计则更注重功能性,它们是截然不同的两个领域,设计方式也各不相同。虽然女性客户也已经开始关注腕表的技术参数,但女士腕表设计的关键元素仍在于视觉美感和功能性的不同结合方式。
Q:Today we can see your new collections, like the Wild Pop collections, can you please introduce a little this new collection?
宝格丽展出了Wild Pop高级珠宝系列等多个全新产品系列,可以简单介绍一下这个全新珠宝系列吗?
A:This new collection, the main theme is pop, so we talk about colour, about different moods compared with the other collections. And this year we introduced two new executions for Serpenti, one Manschette with a very impressive execution and the other one is a Serpenti with a spring inside with a different execution in terms of surfaces and forms. So, the Manchette is the essence of our newness in terms of High Jewellery products. The other one takes more inspiration from the archive, but again it’s not exactly the same watch that you can see in our archive, it’s a new reinterpretation, and we use small gold spheres on the bodies of the snake to play with diamonds and to play with gold. So, these two executions are very important for us because Serpenti is the main collection for ladies, and each time we find different ways to wear a Serpenti watch, so today I think that we have six or seven different ways to wear a Serpenti watch.
全新Wild Pop高级珠宝系列的主题是波普艺术,相较其他珠宝系列,这一系列珠宝设计更注重颜色和情感的表达。宝格丽今年推出了两款全新Serpenti腕表:一款镯式腕表和一款经典的Serpenti腕表。镯式腕表设计精美,是宝格丽在高级珠宝腕表领域的全新典范之作。另外一款腕表的创作灵感源自经典Serpenti腕表,但绝不是简单的复刻,而是运用不同型面对经典款式进行重新演绎。腕表内部采用了弹簧设计,灵蛇造型饰有小巧的黄金饰珠,与腕表所镶嵌的钻石和黄金相映成趣。Serpenti系列是宝格丽主要的女士系列之一,因此这两款腕表对我们来说意义重大。宝格丽一直致力于创作全新Serpenti系列腕表款式,目前我们拥有六到七种Serpenti系列腕表款式。