BVLGARI宝格丽全新Wild Pop高级珠宝系列继罗马发布后,再次璀璨亮相北京,Wild Pop高级珠宝系列展现源自上世纪80年代的热情欢愉与波普艺术,带你“闯入狂野80年代”,领略“Larger Than Life活出华丽人生”的意式风华。环球网时尚频道专访宝格丽创意总监Lucia Silvestri,从一个人的职业生涯到一个品牌的“传奇年代”。
Lucia Silvestri开始在宝格丽珠宝门店工作时只有18岁。就像是真爱故事里常有的情节,她立刻就迷恋上了这些珍贵的宝石。
她说她爱上了“这些彩色的宝石,还有我从它们身上感受到的多样的美和能量。”她放弃了继续研究生物,转而把全部热情投入到宝石上。宝格丽兄弟很快察觉到了她的巨大潜力,认定她是可造之材,并决定向她传授本领。正如Lucia所说,“我是最合适的人选,这里是最适合我的地方,现在也是最合适的时机!”
20岁的她开始和世界各地顶尖的宝石专家会面,同珠宝领域许多世代都极具审美品位的专家交流。日内瓦,纽约,安特卫普,斋普尔,科伦坡……每一次旅程都有令人难忘的发现。经过时间的积淀,这些经验又演化成为专业知识。
选购宝石是一项复杂而精密的任务,在承担起这项任务之前,Lucia的工作是对宝格丽家族购买的半宝石进行分类和挑选,这项工作她从事了许多年。当时是80年代中期,宝格丽在全球只有五家门店,珠宝的制作过程只有家族内部的成员才能参与,Lucia则凭借她的智慧和专业技术参与到宝格丽珠宝诞生的传奇过程之中。
“我最先学到的一件事”,Lucia说道,“就是挑选宝石,然后只购买那些我已经想到可能如何使用的宝石。这意味着在选购宝石的时候,也就是在设计和制作之前,我就要想象出未来用这些宝石做成的珠宝可能有怎样的颜色和形状搭配。”和一块宝石的第一次接触就能激发出一种创造性,想象出令人惊喜的色彩和形状组合。通过宝格丽设计师和专业工匠的努力,这种创造性令宝格丽奢华的高级珠宝成为世界上的独一无二。
通过多年努力,她不断得到授权,终于成为宝格丽宝石选购总监,从事着过去只由宝格丽兄弟从事的工作。
她四处旅行,有时和宝格丽兄弟一起,有时独自一人。一个人的时候她会通过电话向他们描述宝石的切割形状和颜色。几十年来,他们每天在一起工作,Lucia得到了他们完全的信任,品味也和他们相契合。
2013年6月1日,Lucia Silvestri实现了她一生的梦想,成为了宝格丽的创意总监,再次证明了她对宝石的热爱和她无与伦比的创造力。
Q:环球网时尚频道 李晓丹
A:宝格丽创意总监Lucia Silvestri
Q:You started off picking the gemstones at the beginning of your job, so now as the creative director for Bulgari, what has been the impact from picking the gemstones to now being the creative director? What’s the link here?
您在宝格丽的职业生涯始于宝石挑选工作,这段经历对您目前作为宝格丽创意总监的职位有怎样的影响?这两种工作之间有什么联系?
A:The link between picking the gemstones and now as creative director is very natural because when I started to select the gems, I started selecting the gems thinking about the future gems, so for me one of the first lessons that I learnt from Mr. Bulgari is to buy gems only if you know how you can use it, so for me it’s quite natural the process from buying gems to creating jewels.
这两种工作之间有着非常自然的联系。当我开始挑选宝石的时候,同时也在心中思考这些宝石的设计构思。我最初从宝格丽先生身上学到的宝贵经验之一就是,只采购那些你知晓如何在珠宝设计中运用的宝石。总之,对我而言,从采购宝石到设计珠宝是一个非常自然的过渡过程。
Q:In my experience you have been to so many markets, so many cities, to pick or purchase the gemstones and maybe there are different interesting stories in all of this? Just pick one story that you think is the most impressive…
据我所知,为了挑选或采购宝石,您走访了很多市场和城市。在此期间,您应该会有各种各样的有趣遭遇,可以讲讲令您印象最深刻的一个故事吗?
There are so many stories… Maybe I can talk about the last one, when I bought a sapphire, under 80 carats, and it was huge, but it was not perfect cut, and so I worked very closely with the cutters to recut the sapphire because I could see the beauty of the stone, but I couldn’t see the soul. So I worked very closely with the cutters and me and the cutter were in some way fighting because he didn’t want to recut the stone, so it was very fun because I spent fifteen days to convince him to recut the stone and in the end we made a beautiful sugarloaf sapphire, under 80 carats, perfect, full of life and full of soul and so I could finally see a gem for Bulgari.
确实有许多有趣的故事。我想我可以谈谈在我的宝石挑选工作经历中的最后一个故事。当时,我购买了一颗重量略低于80克拉的蓝宝石。虽然这颗宝石体积硕大,但切割工艺却有瑕疵。我能看到这颗宝石的独特美感,但却无法感受到它的璀璨灵魂,因此我与切割工匠合作,对这颗宝石进行重新切割,以展露其耀目光芒。在这个过程中,我和那位切割工匠有过争执,因为他不愿意重新切割这颗宝石。有趣的是,经过15天的磋商,他终于同意对这颗宝石进行重新切割。在我们的紧密合作下,一颗糖面包山切割蓝宝石就此诞生。它的重量略低于80克拉,品质出众,璀璨夺目,完全符合宝格丽对宝石的严苛要求。
You want to keep the value this its already almost past the 80 carat, but you still want to see the passion and the soul, so you need to balance what can makes the product as perfect as possible, so there needs to be a sacrifice somehow.
对于这颗重量几乎超过80克拉的蓝宝石,您既希望能够保持它的价值,又希望它能够璀璨耀眼,这就意味着您需要在宝石的设计和保值方面达到平衡,也就是说您需要在某些方面做出让步。
For us it’s very important the style, the aesthetic point of view, to announce the beauty of the gems, not only the weight, the weight is very important of course, but it’s much more important, the elegance, the style, the soul, the sophisticated cut of the stone.
对宝格丽而言,珠宝风格与视觉美感在彰显宝石的迷人魅力方面发挥着非常重要的作用。当然,重量也是非常重要的元素,但我们更看重宝石的优雅气韵、艺术风格、璀璨灵魂以及精湛的切割工艺。
Q:They want to know for this new collection, there’s a new concept for this collection and for this new Bulgari collection are there any iconic ideas that you want to share with us?
据我了解,宝格丽是基于全新设计理念来创作这一全新珠宝系列的。可否与我们分享一下这款全新珠宝系列运用了哪些宝格丽的经典元素?
When we decided to create the new collection, and the theme was wild pop. We were very excited because we wanted to talk about pop but also about the lifestyle of the ‘80s, and because I started to work in Bulgari during the ‘80s, for me it was a flashback to the past when I started to work for Mr. Bulgari and I remembered my first trips around the world and the first stones that I bought, so I was very excited to work around this collection that was for me one of the most important, beautiful and charming and challenging collections.
在创作伊始,我们就将这一全新珠宝系列的主题定为“Wild Pop”。对此我们感到无比激动,因为在这一主题下,我们不仅能够演绎波普艺术元素,还可以传达80年代的狂野生活方式。我就是在那个年代加入宝格丽的,这个系列带我重温过往,回顾那段刚开始跟随宝格丽先生工作的美好时光。我对首次飞往世界各地挑选宝石的经历以及负责采购的首批宝石,至今仍记忆犹新。正因为如此,我非常兴奋能够参与这一珠宝系列的创作。我认为Wild Pop高级珠宝系列对我来说是最重要、设计最精美、最具魅力且最富有挑战性的珠宝系列之一。
Q:So, thinking about these new ideas, new concepts, Bulgari brings these new ideas to the world and to the jewellery industry, who creates the trends?
宝格丽不仅构想出了这些新颖创意与全新理念,还将它们推广至珠宝行业和全球市场,是否可以说宝格丽引领了时尚潮流?
Bulgari is pop inside. From the beginning we are pop because during the ‘70s and during the ‘60s, in every decade we made something pop, so also Andy Warhol, a very important artist for pop art, said that Bulgari is contemporary art. So, for us, for Bulgari we are pop in our DNA for sure.
宝格丽的作品蕴含着波普艺术的精髓。宝格丽一直都是波普艺术的化身。不管是60年代还是70年代,每个年代我们都推出了融合波普艺术元素的珠宝佳作。著名波普艺术家安迪·沃霍尔对此深有感触,他曾说过宝格丽就是当代艺术。对宝格丽而言,波普艺术无疑是品牌基因的组成元素。
Q:Some people think about Bulgari jewellery that it has some joy, has this fresh energy. How to keep impressing people? What key elements can Bulgari jewellery bring to its clients?
有人认为宝格丽珠宝传达了欢愉乐观的精神与朝气蓬勃的生命力。宝格丽如何保持对客户的吸引力?宝格丽珠宝能够为客户带来哪些魅力元素?
Of course, the creativity. We always try to find new combinations of colours, new designs, new styles, maintain the Bulgari DNA, but the creativity for Bulgari is really the main challenge and we would like to maintain the Bulgari style but with new creativity every time, in every collection. And the creativity for Bulgari is not only because of the design, creativity means combination of colours, combination of gems, combination of design, but also craftsmanship is very important, creativity means also a new way to create, to work with the manufacturing.
宝格丽保持对客户吸引力的秘诀当然是创意。在传承宝格丽经典元素的同时,我们一直在尝试探索全新色彩组合、全新设计以及全新风格,但创意才是宝格丽面临的真正挑战。我们希望在秉承宝格丽经典格调的同时,每个珠宝系列都能够展现全新创意。对宝格丽而言,创意不仅意味着珠宝设计,还包括色彩搭配、宝石搭配以及设计组合。此外,珠宝制作工艺也是非常重要的元素。创意还代表全新的创作方式以及与制作部门全新的合作方式。
Q:Will Bulgari do more products like male accessories, also, are there requests from male customers to do more high jewellery?
宝格丽将来会推出更多男士配饰和类似的产品吗?男性客户对高级珠宝的需求是否也在增长?
Sometimes yes. For males for instance, coins. This is something that men love a lot, because its unisex, a lady can wear coins but also men. We created also B.zero 1 that is for sure a unisex collection. Some broaches also. Some of the new trends for men is to wear jewels, we have rings, broaches, pendent, so we have beautiful things also for men.
是的,宝格丽会不时推出男士配饰。以钱币元素为例,融合钱币元素的珠宝备受男士青睐,同时,这类中性风格的珠宝还适宜女士佩戴。我们的B.zero1系列堪称是这类珠宝的典范之作,男女皆适宜佩戴。此外,一些宝格丽胸针也属于这类中性珠宝的范畴。鉴于佩戴珠宝是目前新兴的男士时尚潮流,宝格丽也为男性客户准备了设计精美的戒指、胸针以及吊坠佳作。
Q:Do you get special requests from men to create some special objects?
宝格丽是否接过男性客户的特殊需求,创作独特的珠宝作品?
Apart from watches, the main request is for pendants and for rings.
除了腕表外,男性客户的主要需求当属吊坠和戒指。
Q:So, its something they want to pair with their wife sometimes?
是否可以这样理解,他们希望自己的配饰能够与妻子所佩戴的珠宝相匹配?
Yes, sometimes, especially in this part of the world, sometimes we create a ring for the wife and a ring for the husband, similar, but more masculine for the man and more feminine for the lady. So yes, we have this kind of request, especially from this part of the world. And not forgetting Serpenti, also Serpenti pendants, Serpenti is for men too.
是的,有时是这样的。尤其是在这个市场,针对这种需求,我们不时推出适宜夫妻共同佩戴的对戒,它们的款式类似,但男士戒指更具硬朗气息,而女士戒指则融合了更多柔美元素。这类来自男性客户的需求我们确实收到过,尤其是在这个市场。此外,适合男性客户佩戴的宝格丽珠宝还包括Serpenti系列,尤其是Serpenti吊坠。
Q;The pendent but not the ring?
难道不是戒指更适宜男士佩戴吗?
But we have some male clients that bought Serpenti for themselves, from Thailand.
我们的一些泰国男性客户会购买Serpenti珠宝。
Q:This is a quote from Shakespeare: “Jewellery is silent but more than any language to impress the women.” So, what do you think is the most charming part of the jewellery? What are the key elements?
莎士比亚曾说“珠宝沉默不语,却比任何语言更能打动女人心”,您觉得珠宝最大的魅力是什么?有哪些关键元素?
The emotion. The emotion that a client wants to share with himself or with others. The emotion to buy a piece of art. Even if we start from B.zero 1 or Serpenti or a piece of High Jewellery, for me from the big to the small they are all a piece of art. This is the joy to share with our clients, the fact that we are not just selling an investment, or just something to wear but a piece of art. But instead of putting onto the wall you can wear it and enjoy the energy of the gems, the energy of the passion that we have, to create this kind of art. Because jewellery, our jewellery, is art. In our life we have many emotions, so this is another one, so we have the opportunity to share with our clients the fact that we create our jewels really with passion. A person like me who is the face of this brand, I’m a person that loves my job and loves the jewels that I call my babies.
珠宝最大的魅力在于情感,它蕴含着客户希望与自己或他人分享美好事物的欣喜情愫,更是购买艺术作品时的愉悦心情。无论是B.zero 1系列、Serpenti系列、亦或是某款高级珠宝,而且不管款式大小,价值几何,我觉得所有宝格丽珠宝都堪称艺术品。这点非常值得我们与客户分享:宝格丽珠宝不仅仅是投资产品,或供人们佩戴的装饰物件,它们更是艺术品。不同于其他投资产品,除了展示之外,你还可以佩戴它们,在沉醉于宝石的璀璨魅力的同时,感受宝格丽在创作这些宛如艺术品般的华美珠宝时的满腔热情。我想强调的是,我们的珠宝就是艺术品。生活中,我们有很多种情感,我所提及的只是其中的一种。通过宝格丽珠宝作品,我们向客户传递出我们对珠宝创作的巨大热情。作为宝格丽家庭的一员,我也是宝格丽的代言人。我热爱我的工作,热爱宝格丽珠宝,我把它们称作是“我的孩子”。